The Rodders Blog

Lowering your Headlights on 1935 Fords:

Here you can see the standard headlight stanchions.

In this article we will show you how Rick Field, a hot rodder from Lithgow in NSW Australia has achieved the lowering of his headlights for his 1935 Ford Tudor. This method can be used on any headlights that incorporate the stanchions from the mudguards. With questions asked to various car buddies he could not find a suitable method to which he was satisfied with.

To do this on models like the 1936 Fords the stanchions are incorporated in with the construction of the mudguard, even with the fiberglass guards these both will have a different  approach compared to the 1935 models. To do the 1936 models, you could use this method as shown in the following photos, though most people prefer to modify the headlight buckets on there own. This is done with the removal of the headlight mounting point at the base of the headlight and raising this up into the bucket itself with a large enough opening to fit the stanchion in side, then using metal formed in the shape of an oval tube or similar shape you may choose and weld that in place.  The mount now becomes  further up inside the bucket. One thing you must consider. Make sure there is no contact with the headlight itself once installed.

Either way you modify your headlights, you can only go to the maximum the mudguards will allow which is usually 30mm to 50mm unless you countersink them into the guards.

So out with his only pair of headlight stanchions, (yes they are hard to find today) I will share with you how Rick went about altering his own.

First  you will need to find some stanchions that are rust free which can even be sourced from other model cars with similar mounting points. Just check out any old cars you might find in farmers yards or paddocks.

A standard 1935 headlight stanchion

Now you can compare the lowered headlight on the left guard with the untouched version on the right guard. You will clearly see the difference it can make. It all adds up to how many custom touches you can do with your ride. Using a billet grill adds more custom features. This way you keep the theme flowing throughout the whole project.

Here we have the modified on the left guard, standard on the right.

Now to do this Rick has made this quite simple, If you want to lower them, well just cut the required amount from the stanchions. Ok

You only need to use your imagination, as this is as simple as it can get.

Here you can see the many cuts Rick has made, as he now has to bring the centre in to match the top half.

Many cuts are required.

Here you can see where your limits are. Obviously to keep the headlight bucket mount horizontal you have only a certain amount you can shorten them by. Always remember the top has to fit back on or you can even modify that.

You will be limited on the amount you can cut.

All that’s required now is to weld them all together, a quick cleanup with the emery wheel and your just completed another stage of your ride. One thing I would do before welding is to remove the inner rust either by blasting or a dipping solution.

With welding complete a quick clean up, it's all done.

Here’s another look from a different angle.

Another really nice finished result by Rick Field

On this photo there is one more item to be shortened. That is the headlight mounting bolt. You can either shorten as you can see in the next photo or tap the thread up the shaft further and cut the excess off.

Last we need to shorten the headlight bolt.

You can see in the next photo how nice and neat they look when the headlights are tucked up close to the guards.

A much cleaner look for a Hi-tech ride.

Now go back to the first photo and just compare the difference between these two.

Thanks to Rick Field for this article, it all helps to solve those little jobs on your hot rod project that can make a big result when it comes to trophy time.

Happy Hot rodding

Dave Ailey.

Can’t find old mudguards? So you want to widen what you have.

Thanks to Rick Field for this Article.

Stewart Smith shows Rick how it's done using an English Wheel.

Well all you need is an English wheel! Now that’s easy to say in just words, but what about the fact you haven’t got one? Today there is many on the market for sale in various shapes and sizes with a selection of wheels to go.

Now if you find you don’t have the room in your garage, then check out some options for mounting them on top of your bench. This alone will save you room and they are usually cheaper items. Suppose your bench is no option even the space for a floor mounted unit  makes for a tight squeeze.

Well there’s two more options you can channel your thought’s too. The first is to join up with a car club and get yourself known within the members, easy to do at each meeting and quite often you can put your thoughts across within there newsletters for any help.

Clubs can have a designated meeting point usually once a month and this can take place at a local member’s garage or workshop. These workshops can at times have these heavy pieces of machinery so it’s all in a matter of just ask the right question.

The second option is to join a local Technical school which may have night classes for panel beating. These will generally have all these types of machines and with a annual fee per term or year, it makes great sense to become enrolled and learn the skills from teachers. To have your self a coach is always a great way to start any project.

Within this article I will share the following photos of the widening of 1935 Ford rear guard’s using an English wheel. At first Stewart Smith the panel beater did the first guard, showing Rick the skills to perform this at home. Now it looks easy and it is once you have honed the initial skills on some practice panels first.

Wide rubber usually means wide guards.

Now these are the second set of wheels and tyres Rick has purchased for his 1935 Ford Tudor. Not happy with the first, on to ebay they went. Now with his new wheels above, he needed to perform improvements from the so called previous builder. I’m sure you will see why.

Yes that’s metal tubing used to strengthen the joins.

Replacing previous repairs that are just not to Ricks standards.

So out with the old:

Out with the old

And in with the new:

From flat stock, its hard to do this with out an English wheel.

By using an English wheel you can achieve results with a curve as above.

10 inch rubber will fit nicely under those guards.

As I have mentioned in previous articles, it’s all about the look:

Tack welds help make it easy.

Now you will have to widen the running boards to match, but remember its all in the look.

Nice welds make it easier to file finish.

Nice welds performed by Rick are done with the use of a Tig welder and experience I might add. These don’t throw out as much heat into the panels which in turn gives you an easier panel to complete.

No expensive tools here.

At first its easier to start the forming of tight curves with the aid of a domed mallet and a log of wood, generally cut to waist height to save the old back.  All you need is to create a concave affect in the top of the log as you can see here and start creating the curve.

Watch those thumbs!

Final shaping can be completed with the English wheel.

All that’s left is some final treatment with the hammer and dolly and final welding.

It started out as a sheet of flat metal.

Now take a look at a stock standard guard just to compare the difference with the wider look.

You can clearly see the difference.

With the use of an English wheel you can form the crease down the middle to achieve the crisp look.

Nice crease down the middle too.

Its hard to fault workmanship like this, with the amount of curves in these fat fendered rods it makes it easier with the use of an English wheel. As in a previous article I show you how it can be done by using the sections from donor guards but it all comes down to how many dollars you can afford to spend on your hot rod.

Metal finishing might take time though it sure leaves a great job.

All this fine work is the results performed by Rick Field. With plenty of practice he has now proven your can be perfect.

Beautiful workmanship in metal

Now for all those that think Rick is a metal craftsman from way back, you had better think again. This is Ricks very first Hot Rod , a 1935 Ford Tudor which he bought as an uncompleted project. A perfectionist he is and I have to admit after witnessing some of the repairs performed by the previous owner , I can understand why he gave up his time to learn and perform this fantastic metal work. It looked good from an untrained eye, but once you get them home and have a proper inspection, you can only hope you have not got your self a can of worms. The workmanship Rick has performed has all been done in his home garage, bar the stint with the use of the English wheel. So you can see the results you can achieve by learning a few skills with the guidense from a coach.

Now you don’t have to go out and spend all those big bucks on an English wheel either. This next photo will show you what friends are for. Ricks friend and buddy hot rodder made this English wheel for him. Why not he thought he was making one for himself , so why not make two. All they purchased was the hardened wheels to suit. All in the fun of this hobby we call Hot rodding.

Great job for made at home.

Your in Hot rodding:

Dave Ailey.

P.S…. Now sit back and check the operations in using an English wheel. Oh remember to count your thumbs before you start  your own project too. In case you would like to know : The English wheel was first used to make armour back in the days when the only thumpin you could here was from the horses hooves during a battle.